"What a refreshingly honest blog about listening to music through hi-fi. So happy to see views based upon the enjoyment of music rather than so-called sound 'quality'." - Peter Comeau, Director of Acoustic Design at Mission / Wharfedale

Wednesday 23 January 2013

Linn Majik 140 Update

Quick re-cap: I had active Linn Keilidhs driven by Linn Majik Dynamik amps, then went to listen to secondhand M140s and new (but well used) MIsos, having decided that A242 were too deep for my room, and that my pockets weren't deep enough for A242s. I choose the M140s over the M Isos in the shop demo because I couldn't hear where double the money went - I could hear the deeper and better controlled bass of the Isos, but I didn't like the way they recessed vocals in the mix, and I didn't think they imaged very well.

Majik M140 main left and right speakers in position

So, from brand new the active M140s were rather good, but somehow not quite as good as I remember them in the shop (but remember the shop ones were secondhand not new). I put it down to the room. The dealer and I spend a bit more than an hour on positioning them and strangely enough they ended up with the front panel pretty much in exactly the same place as where the front panel of the Keilidhs had been. They had about 5mm toe-in. My room is 18ft by 14ft and the speakers are on the shorter wall.

Now, given they were a massive step up from the Keilidhs in terms of detail, imaging, dynamics etc, that's where they stayed. But over about 5 months, I gradually liked listening to them less and less, but couldn't figure out why, apart from the bass being much more filled out than when they were new. Then my Naim loving mate came round and he hadn't been for a couple of months and he complained that they were boomy whereas they hadn't been boomy before.

So I've messed about with positioning over the Christmas period. They're now an extra 40mm from the rear wall, they're toed-in 27mm. But, more importantly, I've turned down the amps that drive the lower bass driver (200Hz and below only from this driver) by one click, which I believe is the equivalent of 0.5dB, but I'm not sure, perhaps someone will advise - maybe its 1dB.

The difference all this has made is huge - they now sound way better than they ever have, and I'm really enjoying them again. The tune is back, there's no boom, but the bass is still deep and solid. Imaging is hugely improved now too. A really good result. I'm just hoping they've finished running in as I don't want to have to keep repositioning them! According to Majik Isobarik owners 5 to 6 months is about right for running those in, but I've not seen anyone mentioning this for M140s, my experience is suggesting somewhere between 3 and 5 months.

So very happy with my active M140s, and I'm not sure if I would have been able to properly dial them into the room if they'd been passive as I would not have been able to tweak the bass down a touch. The 140s form part of an AV system supported by an M112 and M109s and they're great for that too.

1 comment:

  1. The bass on 140's can be tweaked down in 2 ways in passive mode - one is by inserting the bung in the port, the other is that the dealer can apparently reduce the bass by an internal adjustment