Using hole cutters on the drill, holes were cut for the drivers in the front panel, and some repair work was done to the wood as a result of my handiwork (PVA glue is a good thing). Positioning the drivers was decided by putting the tweeters as far apart as possible, the need to squeeze 2 mid-bass drivers per side in the space available and the position of the hinges for the lid of the box. Some suprisingly long and substantial nails were found in the panels by the hole cutters, which quickly went blunt, so won't be any use for future projects. Ho-hum.
Fitting the crossovers, amp, cables etc. into the space available wasn't too bad, but sequencing what to when was pretty key. I also used 5mm p-clips to keep stuff tidy. Wherever possible, connections were soldered and covered by heatshrink can cables p-clipped to the inside of the box. Bi-wiring was used from the back of the amp to the crossover boards, as that was just as easy as it would've been to re-bridge the connections on the crossover itsself.
|Crossovers mounted on the insider of the front panel - the hole lower down is for the ALPS pot volume control|
|Crossovers are on small plastic "stand offs". The multi-coloured cables pass from this central amplifier space, through the 18mm dividers into the speaker cabinet spaces. The gold coloured cables will go to the amp|
Wiring up the volume pot was straightforward, using a wiring diagram found using Google. It uses Linn black analogue cables from the input panel and then onwards to the amp.
Part Three is here