For information only: this post is not a set of instructions nor is it intended to encourage any kind of modification of electrical products. As they say: "Do not try this at home".
Back in 2007, Linn introduced the Klimax DS streamer and told the World that they believed streaming to be the future and that it outperformed their best CD player at that time (the CD12). They also cemented the format of the new Klimax casework introduced earlier with the Klimax Solo power amp and the Klimax Kontrol pre-amp.
With the full rollout of the lower Akurate and Majik ranges, Linn's iconic LK casework from the 1980s into the 2000s was fully retired.
The LK range really span the whole of Linn's electronics product line with its origins in 1985 with the first pre-amp and power amp, the LK1 and LK2, right up to the 2000s. The casework for those early components were product specific but they set the basic blueprint for what became the "standard" LK box - a 2/3rds width box when compared to most hifi of the time.
Some LK product examples:
|LK2 and LK1
|Linn Classik all-in-one system
|Linn Klout power amplifier
|Workshop Music DS
|Inside of Sneaky Music DS before dismantling
|The empty Sneaky Music DS chassis (IR board still in place, top right)
- Electrical safety
- Ease of extending the connections from the board to the back panel
- Closeness of audio circuits to the power supply
- Where mounting points need to be drilled into the LK chassis
- Room for the first stage heatsink
- Minimising cable changes for the power supply
- Ensuring the power supply heatsink makes good contact with the enclosure
- For Toslink I found a "pass through" panel connector that has mounts and female connectors on both sides - combine this with a short optical cable (one end having a swivel 90 deg mount) solved that one. (in the later pictures this is the braided silvery grey cable)
- I wanted to be a bit flexible on the route for audio out so chose a pair of standard interconnects with 90 deg connectors each end - then cut off one end of this cable so it can be soldered to a panel mount pair of phono sockets on the back panel.
- Mains was easy - the existing LK rear panel socket remains as does the front panel switch and the existing connector is directly compatible with the Sneaky power supply. The front panel LED "on" indicator we'll get to soon.
- SPDIF - I chose a panel mount single phono socket. However, in the Sneaky its outer connection has no electrical connection to the Sneaky chassis - so I needed to find a nylon external washer and a nylon "stepped" T washer internally where the leg of the T goes around the phono socket and through the back panel to create electrical isolation. The correct depth of T couldn't be found anywhere so I purchased something too long then filed it down to size. The connection from the Sneaky board SPDIF to the new external connector was a simple shortened phono cable.
- Fallback - this is a tiny microswitch on the circuit board. Fortunately it has dual orientation mounting which means there are 2x tabs on the top of the switch that replicate the bottom connections. Cables soldered to these tabs are taken to a stainless steel push switch - another component that had to be ordered specifically for the project.
- Finally - ethernet. After much searching I found a very short cable that has a normal RJ45 plug on one end (to plug into the Sneaky board) and a chassis mount socket on the other end.
|LK bare chassis - black dots are for 4mm holes, arrows for bosses that need to be filed away.
|LK chassis with bosses removed and Sneaky board mounting holes drilled
|Closer view of removed bosses.
|A small amount of countersinking on the underside - note the need to relocate one of the feet by about 2mm
|Countersunk hole in side panel for PSU mounting
|Connecting the green "power" LED to the Sneaky LED port
|Hole for IR sensor - it sits on its own very small daughter board
|M3x 10mm standoffs. This is an early trial fit - completed project has shakeproof washers between the nut and the circuit board
|Rear panel cutaway, retaining as much as possible for strength and to support new rear panel