"What a refreshingly honest blog about listening to music through hi-fi. So happy to see views based upon the enjoyment of music rather than so-called sound 'quality'." - Peter Comeau, Director of Acoustic Design at Mission / Wharfedale
Showing posts with label SpeakerFilters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SpeakerFilters. Show all posts

Wednesday, 1 February 2023

Introducing the SpeakerFilters.com Rally Team

Introducing the www.speakerfilters.com supported rally team.

We first supported Tim Baker in his Talbot Sunbeam for the Mully Rally in October 2022.  Since then we've confirmed support for Tim and Neil for the 2023 season including their assault on the Heart of England Stage Rally Championship.  The pair are also competing in the www.asoc.co.uk Challenge sponsored by Ex-pressed Steel Panels and Neil is registered for the Broughton & Bretton Motor Club co-drivers' championship.

The car is a 1980 Talbot Sunbeam with the following spec:

Shell: Talbot Sunbeam 3-door hatchback with Series 2 lights and grille. Modifications include seam-welding, weld-in roll cage and alloy wheel arches

Engine: 2481cc Millington XE, Simpson custom exhaust

Transmission: Sadev 6 speed sequential, rear wheel drive, 4-link Atlas axle with limited slip differential

Suspension: Proflex

Brakes: AP Racing

Wheels: 15" diameter Revolution. 7" width for wet tyres, 8" width for dry tyres 

Equipment: Cobra seats, Stilo intercom, plumbed in fire extinguisher 

We'll keep you updated with the team's exploits here.

Monday, 8 August 2022

The UK's Most Interesting Hifi Show is Back - The WAM Show, 2nd October 2022

 The WAM hifi show is a show like no other.

There are a couple of commercial rooms, but beyond that there are 40+ rooms of systems put together by enthusiasts purely for your listening pleasure - no selling!  Each room will have a system brought along to the hotel by a HifiWigwam member, set up for the weekend, playing whatever music they fancy (or you request!) to let you hear real systems put together with love and care for the enjoyment of music.

It's unique amongst hifi shows and not to be missed.

This year its at a new venue, just outside the railway station at Stoke on Trent on Sunday 2nd October.

More information at the show website, tickets are only £10

https://show.hifiwigwam.com/

AudiophileMusings will be exhibiting in Room 221 - do come along and choose a track from our playlist.

Wednesday, 27 October 2021

Annerstedt-Hegge Acoustic Launches Brand New Speakers at Norway Show 2021

A new speaker brand will launch at the Horten Hifi Show in Norway on 6/7 November 2021. 

The A-Ha brand is a local blend of Norweigian & Swedish skills and will bring its first model, the A2a to the show. It will be launched as an active ready version designed to work with Linn Exakt electronics using Exakt digital filters developed in Wales by SpeakerFilters.com. Passive and built-in active versions are planned.

More details here: http://www.a-ha.se/a2.html
 
Show information here: http://hifimessen.no/
 
 

Sunday, 28 February 2021

Linn Tukatan

 Linn's little Katan standmount from the 90s and early 2000s has an excellent reputation, particularly in active form, and quite right too, its not the last word in refinement but the music it produces is very enjoyable indeed.  In Linn part number terms, it is fitted with the 038/2 tweeter and 039/1 mid-bass driver.

 


 

Its predecessor is the Tukan, is similarly small, but lives in a more conventionally shaped cabinet.  It has the older drivers - the tweeter being the 015/x family and the mid-bass the 016/2.  It has a reputation as being a very "fast" speaker, but there's a certain hardness and lack of friendliness to the sound. Its also considerably bass shy compared to the Katan.


Curiously, when taking either of these speakers active (aktiv in Linnspeak) they both use the same analogue active filter cards, despite their very different drivers.  So the crossover points, slopes and relative loudness of the drivers are shared.

Also, the driver cut-outs in the cabinets are identical allowing the drivers from the Katan to be fitted into the Tukan cabinet.  So I gave it a go.  Even with the passive crossover, the Tukatans are a huge improvement on Tukan, being more flowing, warmer, far smoother in the treble and they now have that Katan musicality and friendliness.

Here are the Tukatans:


 

Inevitably, of course, a set of Exakt filters had to be created and were built pretty quickly.  Below is the FR resulting for Tukatan Exakt (ignore below 120Hz as the room is having too much influence there).  A great fun pair of speakers!



Tuesday, 26 May 2020

Building a Nindex Speaker - Part 3 Crossover Design, Measurements and Listening

PART 1 OF 3 HERE
PART 2 OF 3 HERE

As explained back in Part 1, the speaker is intended only to be operated in active mode with a Linn Exakt system. So a bit of an explanation of Exakt first.

In a traditional hifi system, an amplifier feeds a full range signal to the back of the speaker cabinet, then a passive electrical system inside the cabinet (the crossover) splits the signal into the correct frequency ranges for each of the drive units to handle.  This crossover is made of high power components which sap power from the signal, have wide tolerances and introduce their own problems such as phase errors.
In Linn Exakt, the full range signal from a digital source is fed to a component called an Exaktbox. In here the signal is split into the frequency range appropriate to each driver in the digital domain - this means it is done far more accurately than can be achieved in the speaker's own passive analogue crossover. The Exakt system allocates a DAC (digital to analogue converter) to each speaker driver and then the signal is passed to a power amplifer for each driver.  This is then connected directly to the appopriate driver in the speaker cabinet without any further components getting in the way, so the amp has better control over the movement of the driver.
So Exakt has very precise control over what gets to each driver and it introduces no phase errors of its own.  In addition to this, the system corrects for any phase errors within each driver and any frequency response "features" of the driver by applying an opposite signal to the error. Finally it also introduces time delays to drivers that are closer to the listener, in order to better time align the sound getting to the listener's ears. Some information here plus if you Google Linn Exakt you'll get lots more information and opinion.
Personally, I call it Linn Lessinexakt, but I don't suppose that would go down well in the marketing department...

Digital Design

As a consequency of the Linn Exakt approach, the Exaktbox system can be programmed to address pretty much any loudspeaker available, as long as there is someone who can measure the speakers and then carry out the design work to be loaded to the Exaktbox.  This is the service I offer under the SpeakerFilters brand.

There are several stages involved in creating the filters:
  • Physical measurement of the speakers which are then uploaded to Linn's database
  • Acoustic measurement of the passive speaker prior to modification to get a view on its existing characteristics (not part of this design work as there's no existing passive design to measure)
  • Electrical measurement of the speaker drive units (in and out of the cabinet if a ported design)
  • Translation of the electrical measurements into the parameters expected by the Linn Exakt Design system
  • Creation of initial crossover points and slopes, along with approximate attenuation of individual drivers - usually based on the passive crossover design
  • Acoustic measurement and listening with lots of experimentation to get the right mix of measured results and the best listening experience - this is the most time consuming with lots of iterations
So these were the next steps to the project.

Electrical Measurements

These are based on pretty straightforward impedance sweeps - showing the impedance in relation to the input frequency range from 20Hz to 20kHz - the generally accepted range of human hearing.

An example of the bass driver in the Nindex project is shown below:


The upper (red) line shows the phase response of the driver, the lower (blue) line shows the impedance curve which is fairly typical of a driver in a sealed cabinet - the peak is the driver's resonance frequency when mounted in the cabinet. By analysing various elements of this trace, the "thiel-small" parameters for the driver can be derived and fed into the Exakt design tools.

Looking at the response curves of the TM1-A array, it was a fairly straightforward choice of where to start with for the crossover points:

Mid Range Dome Frequency response - shows that the crossover points need to be above 850Hz at the lower end and below about 7500Hz at the top end (when the off-axis response starts to fall away)

The tweeter has a very wide response range and looks like it could handle from 1500Hz or so upwards - so it would be a good design to use with a larger mid-bass in a two way system.

I started with nominal crossover points of 1500Hz and 7000Hz, both with Butterworth 4th order crossovers - for those of you concerned about such steep slopes, remember that, unlike a passive crossover, the Exakt digital crossover doesn't introduce phase distortions based on the steepness of the slope. So the slope can be adjusted to suit integration requirements and the subjective listening experience.

The first acoustic measurement to take is just a quick sweep to check if the relative volumes of the drivers are somewhere near close.  Using the bass driver with attenuation of 0dB I usually put in -3dB for a mid-range and -4dB as the starting point.  Then work from there, usually by ear first, then refining with acoustic measurement. Its possible to hear changes of as little as 0.1dB which most people find very surprising until they hear it for themselves.

Then starts the refining of the crossover points - but only one at a time of course - listening for where the instruments sound more believeable but most importantly where the music itself is more engaging plus best for the most stable central imaging but widest overall spread of image - its not scientific, other than staying within the sensible ranges for each driver.  A crossover point is a nominal value - once this seems about right, more listening is done to various combinations of each driver roll-off point and therefore which mix is right and how steep the slopes might be.  For the bass to mid crossover, its easy enough to hear changes of around 25Hz in the values.  For mid to tweeter, I usually work in chunks of 100Hz.

Design work was completed using a Linn Majik DSM/3 network streamer / pre-amp and a Linn Majik Exaktbox-i which combines 8 channels of Exakt processing, 8 DACs and 8 power amplifiers - a remarkable bit of kit all in one box. The Exaktbox is the pre-Katalyst DAC version (at time of writing and design work - the upgrade is planned for the future).

Linn Majik DSM/3

Linn Majik Exaktbox-i


Here's the data that I ended up with for the Nindex:

Bass Driver
  • Roll-on = 10Hz
  • Slope Type = Butterworth
  • Slope Gradient = 4th Order
  • Roll-off = 1100Hz
  • Slope Type = Butterworth
  • Slope Gradient = 3rd Order
  • Attenuation = 0dB
  • Time Alignment = 0
Mid Driver
  • Roll-on =  1600Hz
  • Slope Type = Butterworth
  • Slope Gradient = 3rd Order
  • Attenuation = 4.0dB
  • Time Alignment = -119 microseconds
  • Roll-off = 4800Hz
  • Slope Type = Butterworth
  • Slope Gradient = 3rd Order
Treble Driver
  • Roll-on =  6700Hz
  • Slope Type = Butterworth
  • Slope Gradient = 3rd Order
  • Attenuation = 9.1dB
  • Time Alignment = -87 microseconds
  • Roll-off = 28000Hz
  • Slope Gradient = 4th Order
In the simplest terms, the resulting graphic looks like this below. Note that this is the electrical output required to achieve the crossover points and a flat response from each drive - so the curves aren't straightforward because Exakt is allowing for the characteristics of the drivers themselves.  Plus, in this image there are actually some filters hidden from view but having an effect - for example there is a small lift below 60Hz to add a little bit of weight to the bass.

The electrical outputs to achieve the crossover points

I then, by habit, add some "protective" filters to each driver - they're not shown above, but I'll put in a low pass filter for the bass driver than allows frequencies between 0Hz and 3000Hz. For the tweeter, for example, I'll add a high pass filter from 3000Hz upwards.  For example for the bass:

Example "safety" filter for the bass driver
Baffle step is a phenonmenon that means when a certain frequency and above reaches the edge of the baffle, it diffracts and becomes amplified for the listener - this is often cited as the reason that studio monitors are built into walls, to avoid any edges. This is obviously not possible for a speaker designed in a box so its best to put in step filters at the frequencies calculated on the baffle width and height.  So those calculations are done and appropriate filters added - with attenuation levels that are guessed to start with (they're often of a similar value between designs with the size of the attenuation rising as the frequency rises) and are typically in the range 0.2 to 2.5dB.  I usually start the step curve a little before the intended frequency and keep the slopes at a nice and gentle 2nd order. Here's the step for the mid driver which kicks in about 15Hz before the calculated point and is attenuated by 1.5dB:

Mid Range Baffle Step Filter
At this point, for confirmation of the rough acoustic measurements and subjective work, I'll take an acoustic 20 to 20000Hz sweep to make sure there are no glaring errors - preferring to work this way rather than relying entirely on measurements.

So now we have a pretty flat response through the design process, a choice of crossover points that give the best subjective sound and imaging.  Of course, in the background of all this the Exakt system has applied the calculations to each driver to deliver minimum phase errors, but all of that is invisible to the designer.

Now its time to do some detailed acoustic measurements and iron out any signficant frequency response anomylies in the drivers themselves.

I use REW software for acoustic measurements, paired with a calibrated UMIK-1 microphone connected to the laptop by USB. The laptop is dedicated to only the audio work, runs Windows 7 and pretty much nothing else. No fancy audio programmes nor drivers or anything else that will potentially add noise or unwanted processing effects.  For design work I always measure the speaker on-axis vertically with the tweeter as that is usually the most directional driver.  Horizontally I will measure on-axis and 30 degrees off axis.

My intention with this design was to get the 30 degrees off-axis frequency response pretty close to flat.  This will mean that on-axis the speaker will sound a little "bright" in that the treble output will be higher than the rest of the audio range.  This is deliberate to allow the speaker to be pretty much optimal with just a very small amount of toe-in.  Then for those who like a little more brightness or for older listeners whose hearing is starting to tail-off at the higher frequencies, a little more toe-in of the speaker will bring that change in balance.

Measurements are taken at 300mm to allow the mic to pick up the full frequency range but to minimise the effects of room reflections.  Not having an anechoic chamber to work with means that measurements below about 110Hz need to be completely ignored as they are prone to standing waves in the room.  Any tweaking below 110Hz is done purely by ear.


The camera angle makes this look more, but this is measuring 30 degrees off-axis in the horizontal

The software provides a sweep from 20 to 20,000Hz and measures the output from the speaker, corrected for the calibration of the microphone. I ignore all readings below 110Hz.

This then gives a picture of any interesting "features" of the frequency response of the drivers themselves, and, if there are any, where the drivers are perhaps overlapping too much, or leaving a trough due to not enough overlap.  Usually some quick adjustments to crossover points or possibly slopes get this sorted quickly.  The "features" of the drivers can be adjusted for with the Exakt digital crossover designs.

This is done by "modelling" the humps and dips in the response curve, then Exakt compensates electrically by applying the inverse to the signal delivered to the speaker.  So a 3dB hump at 1000Hz in the speaker will have an exact opposite - 3dB output applied at 1000kHz. It is possible to add bell curves, high or low pass and shelves. The height and width of a bell curve is adjustable.  It is possible to model each left and right speaker individually, or just go with a blend of the average of both.  In this project I worked on individual drivers - in commercial models it makes more sense to go with an average as there is little sense in trying to second guess the features of individual products out in the market.

So here is the resulting modelling for the left speaker with all the humps and dips modelled in for Exakt to correct for. It has to be said, apart from the need to add a lift from about 16000Hz upwards, the tweeter was the best behaved of the drivers.  Please be aware that I don't spend days and days dialling out every single ripple in the response curve. It would be rather unproductive - I focus on the main features and leave it at that.

The top line is the modelling of the "features" in the frequency response of the drive units.  The bottom 3 lines are the phase characteristics that Exakt has calcuated for correction.  Note, at this point the features include the effect of the cabinet, not just the drive units, so some of these could be due to the cabinet resonances mentioned in the build section (Part 2).

Top is the modelling of the frequency response of the drive units, including their "features".  The bottom is the Exakt modelling of the phase characteristics for correction

RESULT

So what is the ouput of all that work?

I've used 1/12th smoothing of the acoustic measurements to give a realistic idea of the reponse curve.  Below are 2 graphs to show why I'm mentioning this - if I was a speaker manufacturer, I would be tempted to publish the the 1/3th smoothing to make it look miraculously good!

Remember to ignore everything below 110Hz as there is too much room interaction.

Example with 1/3 Smoothing. Contrast With 1/12th Below. See how the above pretty much eliminates the room iteraction!  And those who really like their hifi to be "objectivist" rather than "subjectivist" sometimes forget that the numbers can be manipulated.  This is exactly the same data, just presented differently!

Exactly the Same Measurement But with 1/12th Smoothing - I use 1/12th in the results below
Single speaker result below - remember it is designed to be listened to off-axis.  Here you can see the more pronounced upper frequencies that would result in pointing the speakers directly at the listener compared to the intended only slight toe-in. Rotating the speakers with more toe-in allow a slightly brighter presentation if required.

Green line is on-axis response measurement. Red line is 30 degrees horizontal off-axis response measurement
 A word about phase correction with Exakt - one of its key selling points. It must be said that it is a phase error minimisation solution, it doesn't deliver a completely flat phase response.  However, I will provide a not to be named phase response example from a very well known domestic speaker maufacturer for comparison.  This is from their £16,000 speaker.  As usual, please ignore the measurements below 110Hz.  I do not post this comparison here to try and claim my project gets even close to being within sniffing distance of having a hint of the performance of the comparison speaker, but just to illustrate the effect of having no phase errors introduced by the crossover and the correction of phase errors within the drivers.

Nindex phase response, 30 degrees horizontal off-axis:
Phase Response of the Nindex Project Speaker

The dotted line in the above graph is the phase response of the £16k speaker
SOUND

So how does it sound?  Well, I'm not at all disappointed by the result. In fact, its rather enjoyable.  I don't think its the most dynamic speaker ever, but it does have a nice sense of flow - its definitely of the more laid back variety.  If you like most JBLs, you'll not like these.  Bass is tuneful but not "kicking", doesn't go massively deep but its pretty good for a box of this size.  There's no real noticable box artefacts, the treble is sweet and very detailed, the mids and vocals a touch polite but well articulated. Maybe it will appeal to those who prefer the BBC type of design?
Perhaps, at the next but one Wigwam Show (plans are already in place for the next one) you'll get a chance to come along for a listen.
Now perhaps its time to hook them up to the Akurate Katalyst / Lejonklou power amps in the main system and see how they get on.  Perhaps there'll be a post script later.

Finally, what's in a name. Well, not much thinking really. The base cabinet is an Index, but they're no longer Index, so they're Nindex. It works with the NINka drivers too. Kind of.

A few parting photos.  Thanks for reading!





PART 1 OF 3 HERE
PART 2 OF 3 HERE

Friday, 22 May 2020

Building a Nindex Speaker - Part 1 The Idea

At AudiophileMusings there is an almost constant turnover of speakers passing through the place. Sometimes for review, sometimes to consider retro products to find out if they're as good now as they were then, but often due to designing Exakt digital filters for them as part of SpeakerFilters activities.

There's a fair amount of cannibalisation going on too. Pick up some tatty but working speakers, a pair of equivalent, immaculate, but not working speakers and create an immaculate working pair, to keep them going - upcycling perhaps? So sometimes that produces empty but OK cabinets, spare drivers etc.  Usually these are sold as spares, but sometimes a daft idea comes along and a project is born. One of those has been in the making for over 2 years so far...but that one is for another day, month or even year!

This one, however, has been particularly speedy in comparison, with a gestation period of just over 12 months.  There's always something else to listen to, a show to go to, another Exakt design commission to enjoy to delay progress.

Over 3 parts I'll take you through the timeline of this, my first ever completed speaker build and the results.  There's the back of a fag packet involved, some kinda cheating (my woodworking skills are atrocious), the application of some ideas I've had for a while and some drivers that are familiar to many but very familiar to me.  I've chucked some ideas at this that I've not really understood why they're not used more extensively, until I tried to achieve them, and there's some very traditional elements too. And some bodging along the way - so don't expect this to be ultra precise, nor particularly pretty.

Starting Point

A need for some drivers to fix a pair of Linn speakers lead to the purchase of a pair of Linn Index II speakers that were extremely good value for money - being in decent condition and fully working. The mid-bass drivers went to the repair job and the tweeters and crossovers went off to a new home, leaving me with a pair of Kustone stands and a pair of empty Index II cabinets.  Given the relatively low quality of the cabinets themselves - chipboard shells, mdf baffle, vinyl wrap and essentially nothing more, they languished in the corner for a while, under threat of a trip to the local recycling centre.  A different project had left me with some Linn Ninka (040/2) mid-bass drivers in stock too and it seemed a shame not to bring the two together to see if something could be created.

Linn Index II as Standard (library picture)

Tweeter Pair Went To A New Home



Driver Selection

The Index II is around 20 litres in internal volume.  The Ninka, which has 2x mid-bass drivers, is around 40 litres in internal volume. So the availability of a single Ninka driver, with some kind of back of a fag packet logic, in half the volume of the pair of drivers, seemed as though it might just work. Not a sophisticated way of making a decision, but this is a pretty low budget build, so not exactly a lot at risk.

Also sitting around in stock are a pair of Linn 3K arrays - initially I thought about putting these in the mix, but laying the drivers out on cardboard roughly the size of the baffle showed up a couple of things - there wasn't really space, and the traditional way of a 3K overlapping an upper bass or bass driver just isn't possible with the Ninka driver. I was trying to convince myself that the 3K would work, so an extra 4 binding post holes were drilled in the back of each cabinet, but no worries, even though eventually only an extra 2 were required. The obvious thing would be to go with Ninka tweeters - the 038/2 Linn unit is sweet enough, but it didn't seem very adventurous.

So something else would need to be found. Shortly afterwards I saw a post on a forum somewhere about a 2 dome driver array - mid and tweeter - that was extremely good value for money, and remember hearing them in a pair of large floor standing speakers at the Cranage Show a couple of years back.  I remember them being full of detail but without being harsh, edgy nor shouty. A bit of further research revealled that they're not that easy to find, but a pair was soon on its way from Germany to the UK. The HiVi Swan TM1-A is ridiculously good value for money - a couple of sophistcated looking drivers on a very solid all metal chassis.  They come with plenty of information too on their Thiel-Small parameters, recommended crossover points etc.  One thing that appealled was their independence from each other - although they're in the same chassis, they don't have any crossover, they're electrically independent.

Baffled

Back to the donor cabinets. Now the drivers are chosen, it was pretty obvious that the (pretty substantial) original mdf baffles are no longer of use.  But the Index II is essentially a sealed box, from a cabinet construction point of view - everything being glued together.  So onto the circular table saw they went and the baffle was sliced off, revealling the contruction of the cabinets, which includes a ring type stiffening element. The baffle is rebated and sits partially within the cabinet, partially proud. So the circular saw took away a few millimeters of the side and top panels too.

Cabinet with baffle still in place

Cabinets with baffles removed, the strengthening element clear to see

So this is the basis of the cheating in the project - no need to build the main cabinet element, which, with my very rudimentary woodworking skills, meant a much greater chance of success.  I'm going to play the upcycling card again too! More environmentally friendly this way.

Standard crossover removed and additional binding post holes drilled

 Also lying around in the garage were some pine scraps that were cut down to the correct size and the drivers were laid on to check alignment / positioning.  Plus, I needed to practice with the router - an implement that I've not wielded before, so something new to get to grips with.

Checking baffle for dimensions - this is the practice pinewood

First attempt with the router - radius corners around the baffle edges

Laying the drivers out on the baffle. The practice baffle was cut like this, but the final baffle brings the dome array and bass drivers closer together
So that's the starting point - in part 2 the build gets underway and some of the construction ideas are put into action

PART 2 OF 3 HERE
PART 3 OF 3 HERE